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Succulent Kebabs, Aromatic Biryani and Much More: An Indian Metropolis Gains Recognition on Unesco Culinary List.

Biryani cooking via the traditional Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is simmered on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a paste of flour.

Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.

The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.

A Global Honor

In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".

The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.

Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.

An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul

The accolade for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".

With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an profound love for food.

"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
Tender kebabs on a plate
Lucknow is renowned for its succulent kebabs.

A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine

The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.

These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.

It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.

But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.

Beyond Kebabs and Biryani

In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.

The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.

Cloud-like dessert a winter specialty
The city showcases distinctive treats for the season, such as Makkhan Malai, a unique airy dessert, in the winter.

Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops

Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.

In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.

In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Famous tea stall offering masala chai
A renowned tea stall is celebrated for its milky spiced tea.

Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage

The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.

On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation do not want to master the art.

A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.

The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.

BS
By

Brooke Stewart

A film historian and critic with a passion for preserving and celebrating classic cinema from the 20th century.

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