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When assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. However, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their small place achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.